After eight weeks of lockdown it was time to venture back in the ocean, the Blue Gym. The place where escape means sitting and waiting patiently for that next wave, where respite means time out from the everyday routine. The place where my spiritual rinse has been long overdue.

Our Prime Minister Mr Johnson, had deemed us fit to extend our exercise and eased the lockdown. Guidelines for going in the ocean were relaxed although they were ever written in stone,  but many surfers took the advice and stayed out. Personally, it was the most frustrating time of my surfing life, some of this spilled over into social media for which I apologise. Even through injury and illness the ocean didn't beckon me this much. When I was injured I couldn't see the ocean, I was stuck at home, laid up on the sofa with broken foot, and went 16 weeks without stepping foot on the sand.

During lockdown and being furloughed we were watching the waves everyday whilst walking the dog, observing the perfect sand banks greeting what seemed like an endless run of perfectly timed  swell, combining to produce perfect waves, day after day, and  mostly going unridden.

I spent much of this time mind surfing and it became a normal routine that every morning I would avoid beating myself up, or justifying my decision not to surf, and actually as frustrating as it was, I was happy with the decision I made. It's ironic that those perfect days that are often reserved for when I'm at work, and spend the day equally frustrated knowing that when the end of the working day comes, there is no point rushing back home as the tides are now wrong, and when the weekends arrive, the swell disappears or the wind changes, the south coast has no swell, and as annoying as this is, well, thankfully Bikes fill this gap. For information, Visualisation is a powerful tool when you can't do something through injury or in this case a self imposed break.

Those who surfed during this time had a whale of a time, and sometimes part of me does wish I had just gone surfing and joined them, but socially distanced in the water. But I did what I thought was right for me, as having pneumonia three times, meant staying away from people was my best solution.

But last week I could resist no more. I packed my kit, literally ran across three fields and down the valley, and surfed for what seemed like hours, my shoulders are still protesting! It was like going back into the Blue Gym. A few friends welcomed me back into the fold, the line up was polite and orderly, etiquette seemed to have returned but I knew this would not last, that is a phenomenon long forgotten in the surfing world. The carrying capacity for the oceans waves at many beaches is well and truly reached a point of over spill, the limited resources of a set of waves is far outnumbered by the frothing amount of surfers battling to have their slice. However, on this particular day, thankfully this was not the case for this debut session. Two days later I wish I could say the same. Two days later, it was carnage, and unruly mess, and a scene of wilful misunderstanding of a code of conduct, I am determined not to witness again. But among the debris, the fall out, the destruction, I still managed to snag a few beauties as a small group of us found our rhythm on a perfect little bank, leaving the masses to chase the set waves, the bigger waves, the waves that many seem to think are better, I believe the correct term is 'Sheep'. There's another blog here, so maybe I'll write about this next time. My dissertation was on the Carrying Capacity within Tourism, Leisure and Recreation, so I might treat my only reader to an educational post.

Anyway, back to the positivity. On this day the waves were perfect, the fun was 100%, the stoke levels were super high and my board seemed to be doing what I asked. I was also super excited to finally test out the fin my friend John Eldridge had sent me months ago and had not even been placed in my board. Designed to work with Mid Length boards (see my previous post 'Size Matters' back in October 2019) this was a 10' fin that just looks like the second dorsal fin of a Yellow Fin Tuna. Fin design is another realm, and another blog post, and when you try a variety of fins you get to feel how they work, and what is right for your style of surfing and the board your riding. The level of flex is important depending on how you surf, and the design will determine how much you can push a fin in turns and exit from that turn. To put it briefly, this fin on this board pictured below, is a match made in heaven. On a single fin board, you need so much trust in the fin, and after a couple of waves I knew I could push the board over onto its rail, harder than before. This fin, made my first surf back, something to remember.

I felt refreshed, my 'Mid Life' board, married to it's new 'Soup Dragon Surf Co. 10" Fin', the lack of crowds, the smiling faces, the weather, the perfect waves the fact that it was Tuesday morning and I wasn't at work (still seems a little weird and selfish), the fact that actually, time out of the water can be great medicine for your surfing mojo, and I can safely say that this is now fully restored. Maybe 8 weeks of lockdown, after a cold, dark and wet winter was just what my inner self needed. I wonder what everyone else thinks after they reflect on their return to the ocean or doing what they love.

Surfing is respite, and my friend Nick Caddick wrote his Doctorate on how surfing helps mental well-being; my good friend, prolific travel writer, explorer and 'super surfer' Sam Bleakley has  recently published his second book on Surfing and Mindfulness; the young cafe worker clearly  stated to Keanu Reeves (Jonny Utah) in the film with the worst surfing continuity, 'Point Break', "surfing's the source man, it will change your life". But the global brand Billabong probably summed it up at the height of their success years ago with the slogan.......

"Only a Surfer knows the Feeling"

The Sanity Machine!! I bet I'm not alone when I say our bikes have kept us feeling  near  100% mentally strong over these strange times.

I've ridden most days combining short loops around home, longer XC rides or some power hour trail sessions. The knee pads are back on and the speed has increased a little on the descents  this past week which is a great feeling. As riders we love our bikes as we are always taking photos of them,  but I reckon they mean more to us now, maybe more than ever.

When I decided not to surf for a bit, a decision that I know for many has been frustrating and tough on the mindset,  I also  know that when I pull the bike out of the shed, and 'Volia!'.... a very welcomed travel machine,  the means to escape whatever the weather, and that frustration just disappears. The bicycle has to be the best invention ever, the greatest mood changer,  and possibly the best tool for being mindful for a sustained period of time. All hail the bike.

The cold water immersion thing has been around for many years but it seems to be that those who really do commit are finding the true benefits. My wife has been swimming nearly everyday for the past year here in Cornwall, and in our house she has been a champion of getting us in the ocean. Since she first committed to her first dip she's been hooked and is now one of about five committed ladies here in Sennen. There are swimmers who are training for triathlons, or lifeguards, or surf instructors who train in wetsuits, but in the heart of winter, with a gale blowing, that's when these ladies are finding shelter to get their daily dose of ocean therapy, in their swimsuits, or often nothing at all. These ladies are true warriors of cold water immersion. 

As a surfer of over thirty years, a wetsuit is my preferred coating for my vastly pale, and often out of shape body. I think I'd previously mentioned that my wife does say I look like and egg cup in a wetsuit, but for this challenge, and for me personally and to follow those who swim before me; no rubber is allowed. A pair of shorts, a towel, woolly hat, a few thick layers of warm clothes and a hot flask of tea. Simple kit list.

Wild Swimming, Sea Swimming, Cold Water Immersion, whatever it's is... it's cold in there and this is not the tropics. Even in the height of summer with the Gulf Stream in full flow, I reckon I might surf once or twice a year in board shorts or even a short wetsuit. In fact when I qualified as a beach lifeguard many years ago, I did learn that at anytime in the British Isles we are immersing ourselves in hyporthermic temperatures. I seem to recall and please correct me, but anything below 18 Degrees centigrade was potentially cold enough to cause the onset of hyperthermia. So cold water swimming with no wetsuit seems sensible.

The end of March/April we went into Lockdown with COVID19 and this seemed a perfect time to begin my Cold water Immersion Therapy Journey. A quick dip every other day seemed logical. The mental and physical benefits of cold water immersion on well-being is well documented with numerous books and some beautiful films, one of which I've posted below, but my reasons for embarking on this challenge set by my darling wife are as follows, and my unqualified research and personal observations over the past few weeks support these reasons......

Firstly, It releases 'Happy Hormones'.....That's Dopamine and can raise levels by 530% and also beta-endorphin and noradrenaline. never heard of them, nor have I, but quite simply they are the 'Feel Good' chemicals in our brain. Put simply, the combination of these wonderful natural drugs, makes you feel great.  I have already experienced the post swim high, and this I have witnessed most days in my wife's experience of early morning dips.

Secondly, there is also the connection with nature. Something, I  am passionate about whether riding my bikes, being in the woods, walking or surfing, I love being outdoors.  Again the green and blue gyms are hugely documented now, so I'm not going to break any new field of research on this one, but what I will say is that swimming in the ocean feels  completely different to surfing in the ocean. This connection might have something to do with not wearing rubber and having the water directly on your skin and the benefits of the salt water. The more time I can spend in the cold water, the more time I have to appreciate just where I am in the world, not just a harbour with aan RNLI boat house above me. On a surfboard, most of the time your paddling, or sitting on a board, which is the peaceful bit, riding an actual wave is such a tiny percentage of the experience and I think a lot of people might be missing that point.

I did swim in my birthday suit last year at a well known, but difficult to access local beach where others gather to strip off and not be judged, we just went down and thought 'when in Rome',  and that was another level again in connection.  In fact five years ago, whilst running an empowerment project, I took a dip in a Dartmoor river after a very hot day of work in Plymouth. We were heading to Fingle Forest to spend the night with our friends who have a project in the woods nearby. We found Fingle Bridge and I stripped off, my colleague also building the courage; and I just laid there, the water running over the previously mentioned pale and mostly out of shape body. I have never felt so cleansed by water as I did that day, and a visit I shall be making again when we are allowed to travel, after this COVID19 situation.

But to return to the point of connection with nature and not naked swimming, there seems to be something in this new found desire to dip my nuts in freezing cold water, and swim around feeling the burn. It does feel like your skin is burning with cold, but then you get this warm feeling hitting your core. Can I describe this? Probably not,  it must really be felt, but it's a great sensation.

Before you experience this surreal warmth though, you have to get in. You have to build up the motivation, and put aside the thought of getting cold and focus on the post swim happiness, the rush of natural drugs man!! Seriously though, the first time I went in I thought my plums had fallen off, my breath was a little fast, but I knew what to expect so managed by breathing by calming myself and focusing on a mellow rhythm, as panic leads to accidents.  Since lockdown began, I've been in a few times and it's getting easier, we have been safe and not swam in the open ocean, only in waist depth or in our local harbour, or protected rock pool. I've also not been on my own, always with my wife, and we are both experienced surfers so understand the currents and tides and to be honest I'm in there a matter of a couple of minutes right now. But it is getting easier, an it is becoming addictive and the combination of nature and those natural drugs....I'm hooked man!!

I could go write for ages, about physical and mental benefits, and I feel them everyday day I go in. This period of lockdown has been selfishly eye opening, I believe those of us who have embraced this period wholeheartedly will have no regrets when we return to work. Cold water swimming, immersion, or just plain swimming in the sea in a pair of shorts, whatever you want to call it, is becoming something I think about quite a bit, in fact as I write this I'm thinking about where to swim today, in what rock pool, shall we ride there or walk, what tide, it's a great feeling. If you don't believe me, then watch the film below, and when you do decide then make sure you go in safely and with advice from experienced swimmers.

This is the trailer but you find the full version on Vimeo. It's a thought inspiring film.

Sometimes it's nice to just sit back and watch a few minutes of some cool shit...
The words at the end speak volumes and just for that, this is worth a watch, in addition to the amazing backdrops, scenery and the great outdoors. I might see how much I can fit into a Wild West Cornwall day!!

It's been about a few weeks since I posted a blog about producing a Good Times List. An exercise in recording the best moments of your days. Something to look back upon if needed or weirdly creating memories of this strange time. If you use social media then it's not a difficult task, recording memories of time with the family. But then take a moment to think about it your list, when I look at my photos, each shot is like something we tend to do at the weekends, the bushcraft, the family walks, the cycling; except now, for those of us at home, and safe during this lock down period; well, everyday seems to be full of making it feel like a weekend. My neighbours are key workers, so we have the greatest respect and we are sticking to the guidelines, but we are just thankful we live where we do.

Getting up and making plans for the day, spontanious stuff, things are happening like myself baking a cake or trying a new recipe. My son is happy just whittling away with his bushcraft kit, and my wife is cracking on developing her art work, and natural soap business. I seem to have the time to be creative again and even started a YouTube Channel which is so outside my comfort zone its unreal, but lets see where that journey goes. I'm writing so much and out of this, hopefully something new and exciting will be born. Although we've been riding as a family, swimming in rock pools, and walking miles, taking time out to have our own space is pretty vital, it's definately important to take time out.

So below are a few photos photos that sum up my last two weeks during these strange times......This is my good times list and every shot has a positive memory attached. How are  you getting on?

Stay Safe everyone.